Flying the Argentinian skies - Argentina

Waiting for my plane in El Calafate

So you might have noticed that I've been gone the last week. I admit to succumbing to a last hurrah around South America. Specifically the part frequently called "El Fin del Mundo" or end of the world. As a few t-shirts said, I prefer to think of it as the Beginning of the World--the wildly beautiful Patagonia including Ushuaia and El Calafate. 

I will try to contain myself about the place as after all, this is a blog about Brazil. And I am in the last week (!!) of my year-long challenge of daily posts. Can hardly write it all about the land of Messi and Cristina, right? But of course, I will have to indulge in just a little bit of comparison with my adopted country of Brazil.

First of all, Aerolineas Argentinas, their now nationalized airline is muuuuuch better than it used to be. I used to be afraid of getting on those old planes. Now, they have nicer planes than many US airlines (hello US ScAirways!). They don't have movies on the backs of seats (a huge disappointment to the 7 year olds) except on the Embraer 190s, one of which we took from São Paulo to Buenos Aires. That is a nice plane. I would like to congratulate all ITA graduates for being anyhow associated with that plane.  BH will like that. He is an ITA graduate. He might have associated with someone who built that plane.

Second of all, still on the Aerolineas subject, there are two other quirks that made me laugh. One, if you are on a national flight, you had better get there two hours in advance, because if they have everyone there early, they simply take off early. Yes, true story. On Wednesday, we had a 5:25 am flight from Buenos Aires to Ushuaia and we were at the airport at 3:30 am. They loaded us on at 4:30 am and we were in the air by 4:45. Now that was an efficient boarding process--literally loaded on, sat down, and the plane pushed back. Love. Happened in Ushuaia and El Calafate too. So word to the wise: your actual flight time means nothing. Be early.

The other part of the Aerolineas subject is the clapping. When the plane landed in all national airports, the entire plane broke into loud and steady applause. My kids were craning their heads to see what had happened that everyone was so enthusiastic. Were people so surprised that they had landed another flight or is it like the good old days of flying when people were genuinely impressed and appreciative of the fact that a couple of regular guys had once again brought 240 people from 0 to 35,000 feet and then back again? I stopped to think about this one a bit. It is a truly amazing thing, this flying. I say "Yay Argentinians" for reminding me of this.

Ushuaia-Argentine Malvinas airport. Yes, we get your point, Argentina

My final thoughts on the flying portion of my trip is that Wow! Does Argentina know how to build an airport! (also they need to get over the "loss" of the Malvinas, but that's a subject for another day). In Ushuaia, the gorgeous terminal was built (another one had existed on site) in 1995, and kicks the butt of any small airport (Ushuaia population: 70,000) anywhere. Seriously. And free wi-fi.  And that's without throwing in the views from the airplane window (see below).
 

El Calafate International (I kid you not) Airport

In El Calafate, things are even nicer: that airport was built only in year 2000 and designed by an Uruguayan. Is that relevant? Why not? El Calafate is a town of 6,000 residents, maybe 8,000 counting all the stray dogs now that the tourism there is taking off. Their airport was used by 400,000 people during 2007 (source: Wikipedia). Wow! Dear Argentina, please send your airport terminal engineers to Fortaleza where our World Cup visitors will experience a canvas terminal.Oh, all right, that is totally unfair: Fortaleza has about double the passengers and has a pretty nice main terminal. And a canvas one. 

One more view of Ushuaia's airport - WOW!

Okay, so I've rambled on about the airline and airports long enough. If you all will give me license, I'm gonna yap more about Argentina tomorrow and maybe Thursday. Then I'm going to sum up my year of living daily posts. And then I'm taking Mother's Day off. And then I'll be back, but probably not daily. I've got a household to move and not enough time.

The airport world's best staircase - São Paulo

 

This is the staircase leading up to the departure area at Congonhas national airport in São Paulo. It is the prettiest one I know.

The food court rotunda is not bad either.

 

And then God made Arroz com Polvo - Rio de Janeiro

While we were in Rio, BH suggested Albamar Restaurant after a tour downtown. I had never heard of it, and neither had our taxi driver who took us for a tour of the downtown, jumped out to ask a newspaper stand worker, and then cautiously followed some phoned in directions. Not sure what was so tough because it was right next to Santos Dumont Airport.

In brief, this is a restaurant I highly recommend. We schlumpfed in there in sweaty outfits with backpacks and half-filled water bottles, and the tuxedoed waiters did not even blink an eye. This is a restaurant that has hosted numerous presidents, yet on the outside looks like a bad hurricane hit it recently. The three person elevator clangs and bangs up from a generic lobby to a white-table-clothed view of the port and the landing planes at Santos Dumont.

But never mind all that, how about the food? Hands down, the best Arroz com Polvo (Rice with Octopus) I have ever had. Hard to believe since I have also been to the mother ship of Octopus Rice which is in Cumuruxatiba, Bahia. The rice dish ordered by BH's kids was simply unbelievable as was the pasta and fish ordered by the little kids. Turns out the chef came over from the Copacabana Palace in 2009 and they need to hold on to this guy with all they've got. Amazing. 

Highly recommend. Albamar. http://albamar.com.br/.  Don't be scared by its appearance.

With great beauty, comes great ugliness - Rio de Janeiro

Editing my Rio de Janeiro photos this morning, I came across this one. This is the view outside the apartment we borrowed in Urca, Rio de Janeiro. The view is of the Botofogo and Flamengo area and of the airport far away and the bridge to Niteroi (can't see it really). And of these ugly electric, cable and phone wires. I have to say I know of no country that has such great natural beauty that they have done so much to muck up. At least the fisherman in the foreground has a clean view.

Brazil Volunteering - São Paulo

From brasilvoluntario.com.br

Earlier this year, I signed up for the Brasil Voluntário program for volunteering during the World Cup. It was at a moment when I was most concerned about how tourists would be welcomed to this wonderful country during the Cup. The protests were on, people making a mess in the streets, and negativity about the event's arrival was at an all-time high.

I participated in the four-week online course. It was much harder than I thought it would be and took me probably a total of 10 hours to complete. Yes, I was even forced to prove that I speak English. I wrote them a letter that said if they noted my ID document, they would see that I am American. Although it has been pointed out to me that many Americans do not speak English. And I don't just mean Texans (haha, can't resist). 

I had two major concerns during the coursework. The first was that one of the sections, on first aid, was teaching people how to give CPR without even a video. Compressions, etc. Personally I think that could have been better done with a video. And secondary to that issue (an addendum if you will) is that the course then went on to explain that if CPR didn't work, there was always a defibrillator around and that should be used next. Ummm, what? You are putting a defibrillator into the hands of the untrained. Please, no.

The second major concern was the section on the Environment. There were five main subject areas, one of which was the environment. No, not recycling. Knowing which parts of the country were pampas, tropical, sub-tropical, etc. and all the terminology. Like a tourist was going to walk up to me and say "excuse me, is Belo Horizonte in the pampas or in the cerrado?" What were they thinking?

So, I'm proud to say I passed the online course, even with a 44% in the Environment. All scores were supposed to be above 50% but I think they gave me a "bye" since I speak English and they are desperate for English-speakers. Unfortunately I cannot make the in-person training so my flirtation with volunteering for the Brazil World Cup is over.  Still I'll always have this letter to prove I made it:

Você está convidado(a) para a próxima etapa de seleção e preparação do Brasil Voluntário para a Copa do Mundo FIFA Brasil 2014. No treinamento presencial teremos quatro encontros, realizados nos dias 26 de abril, 03 de maio, 17 de maio e 24 de maio. A cada final de semana apresentaremos uma temática diferente e complementar aos conteúdos desenvolvidos no treinamento virtual,fundamental para sua atuação, caso seja selecionado(a) como voluntário da Copa.

Good luck, volunteers. And yes, Belo Horizonte is in the pampas. Or wait, no it's not. Go study.

International Worker's Day - São Paulo

Photo credit: agentedosaude.com.br

Today is the International Worker's Day holiday, a true joy and holiday for any socialist country. This one. I'm actually not in Brazil at the moment but in another South American country run by a nutball woman. I'm hoping and praying that any protests planned for this day are over quickly so I am not stuck at the end of the Earth for a week or more. I like snow but not that much. Yes, I know Boston has some. More than some usually. 

The weird thing about International Worker's Day (at least to me) is that it originated in the US. Yes, in Chicago, that wonderful union city. Now we celebrate our Labor Day in September for no apparent reason. Just to be different, I suppose. 

In Brazil, it is a national holiday. Last year there were a number of protests on this day. So far this year, I haven't heard of any but I expect there will be some. Or not--it's a four-day weekend for lots of folks so who wants to spend time away from the beach protesting? Not I. Or at least away from the snow.

Happy International Worker's Day, all!

Black swans and smashball - São Paulo

Photo credit: parquedoibirapuera.com

On the way back from a casual lunch with friends, my kids insisted on stopping at Ibirapuera Park. We don't go often because it's not close to us, and mostly we go to Parque Villa Lobos, the newer smaller park fewer than five blocks from us. But in fact, nothing touches the beauty, fun and variety of Ibirapuera.

In the Tupi language, Ibirapuera means rotten wood. That's unfortunate because most of what you see there are beautiful paths through the trees (most of which seem quite healthy, thank you). I have been to the park many times over the nine years I have lived here, but it seems that I always find something new. 

Sports are everywhere. A couple is playing smashball with a power and speed that is mesmerizing. Skateboarders take turns whizzing down a hill, basketball, a women's American football game, runners, walkers, personal trainers working out their clients. I feel like a complete bum walking around in my jeans and flat shoes. 

Get moving!!

And then there's the trees. BH's brother who has a background in agriculture points out the flamboyants (poincianas) and ipes that will flower like man in the spring. Beyond them, a lazy river carries black swans under an arched bridge. 

wikipedia

It's hardly a relaxing place to be as you always feel you should be doing something, but it certainly is as special to São Paulo as Central Park is to New York. Enjoy!