And then God made Arroz com Polvo - Rio de Janeiro

While we were in Rio, BH suggested Albamar Restaurant after a tour downtown. I had never heard of it, and neither had our taxi driver who took us for a tour of the downtown, jumped out to ask a newspaper stand worker, and then cautiously followed some phoned in directions. Not sure what was so tough because it was right next to Santos Dumont Airport.

In brief, this is a restaurant I highly recommend. We schlumpfed in there in sweaty outfits with backpacks and half-filled water bottles, and the tuxedoed waiters did not even blink an eye. This is a restaurant that has hosted numerous presidents, yet on the outside looks like a bad hurricane hit it recently. The three person elevator clangs and bangs up from a generic lobby to a white-table-clothed view of the port and the landing planes at Santos Dumont.

But never mind all that, how about the food? Hands down, the best Arroz com Polvo (Rice with Octopus) I have ever had. Hard to believe since I have also been to the mother ship of Octopus Rice which is in Cumuruxatiba, Bahia. The rice dish ordered by BH's kids was simply unbelievable as was the pasta and fish ordered by the little kids. Turns out the chef came over from the Copacabana Palace in 2009 and they need to hold on to this guy with all they've got. Amazing. 

Highly recommend. Albamar. http://albamar.com.br/.  Don't be scared by its appearance.

With great beauty, comes great ugliness - Rio de Janeiro

Editing my Rio de Janeiro photos this morning, I came across this one. This is the view outside the apartment we borrowed in Urca, Rio de Janeiro. The view is of the Botofogo and Flamengo area and of the airport far away and the bridge to Niteroi (can't see it really). And of these ugly electric, cable and phone wires. I have to say I know of no country that has such great natural beauty that they have done so much to muck up. At least the fisherman in the foreground has a clean view.

Scenes from a weekend - Rio de Janeiro

Botanical Garden and royal palms

My favorite means of transport (no joke). Rio city bus

Lagoa. One day I want to row here.

In line at Ipanema Beach public loo. R$1.70 buys you a pee. And a fun conversation with the cariocas with nice toenails.

View from Sugar Loaf. With a twin who prefers to watch the helicopter.

Petrobras. Part of the Bermuda Triangle downtown.

National Library. Under renovation.

Museum of Belas Artes. Where a twin looked at a painting of a messy battle scene and asked "how do they know which team is which?" Precisely.

Praia da Urca - Rio de Janeiro

We are spending the long Easter holiday weekend in Rio, and specifically in Urca. This neighborhood clings to the side of the famous Sugarloaf Mountain (Päo de Açucar) which we plan to go up today. There are trails halfway, and a ropes climb and a 'bondinho' or ski lift. Guess which one this old fart will take?

We are staying at a friend's pied à terre (I am allowed to speak French because he is French) that he uses during the week when he is at client meetings here. I had never been to Urca and now I am never leaving. Ever. I am going to change the locks so Jean cannot return.

It's a lovely apartment with a view across the bay to Botafogo and Flamengo. We can watch the Santos Dumont airplanes wing in--always popular with 7 year old boys. Out the front door is the oceanfront path to the tiny Urca Beach (Praia da Urca) where groups of rowers go out in dragon boats each morning, people play volleyball and then walk into the water to cool off. My kids chase crabs and talk to the friendly fishermen.

It's a real neighbood where everyone seems to know each other. The tiny Julius restaurant serves duck, ostrich and asparagus from Peru. And watching it all day and night is Cristo Redentor from his perch on Corcovado.

I am never leaving. Sorry, Jean.

City of God - Rio de Janeiro

It just doesn't get more beautiful than this city. Around every corner it's another stunner.

The most puzzling thought is how in the world anyone gets anything done here.